Oxford School of Photography

insights into photography

Tag Archives: Harpers Bazaar

Cindy Sherman in 2016 Street Style Star

I came across this article and images in Bazaar and although intrigued by the pictures found myself uncertain about what was going on. I could instantly see how these related to her earlier work but the text and interview was confusing. Was she actually working for the fashion houses or are these true to form satirical images? The sub heading to the article is, so maybe, who knows? Text by  and of course photographs by Cindy Sherman

In an exclusive series of satirical portraits, the famed contemporary artist arms herself with the season’s standout pieces. Her quest? Social media validation.

gallery-1454957328-hbz-cindy-sherman-3

She began shooting portraits in the mid-’70s, while her landmark series, “Untitled Film Stills” (69 works in all, in which she embodied female stereotypes), was created between 1977 and 1980. The youngest—by many years—of five siblings, Sherman says her motivation to make portraits was a very basic need for attention. “They were already established as a family by the time I came along,” she recalls. “It was a way for me to say, ‘I’m here, you guys, don’t forget about me!’ Or ‘Maybe if you don’t like me this way, you’ll like me this way!’ Or ‘I can do this!’ “

Sherman’s parents weren’t as prone to introspection as their daughter. “I think they thought it was cute or something,” she says. “I know they didn’t think it would really turn into anything. When I went to college, my mother was always like, ‘Take some education courses just in case so you can always teach.’ They did see the early days of success; I think they started to realize it was a tangible thing for me.” She adds, “I still don’t think they really had a clue what I was doing.”…..

Today, Sherman could very much rest on her laurels. In 2012, New York’s Museum of Modern Art hosted a retrospective, and in 2011 one of her works, 1981’s Untitled #96,sold for $3.89 million at Christie’s (then a record for a photograph at auction). Ask if she’s still ambitious and she replies, “I want to continue to be happy with what I’m working on because that’s the biggest challenge. I’m hard on myself, but everyone is always waiting for someone to fall. That’s a common problem for artists. They fall into a mold of their greatest hits and just repeat it. WhenI feel that I’m repeating myself, or about to, it’s time to move.”

But when the work is done—new characters born, new realities created—Sherman exhales into her life. She’ll ride around Manhattan on her retro Pashley bicycle, or head out to her house on Long Island to collect her chickens’ eggs. Sometimes, when she’s feeling spent, she jaunts to a deprivational German health spa. Unlike the subjects of this series, she doesn’t live in the middle. “I don’t take selfies,” she says. “I hardly ever use my phone for photographs. It’s really hard to remember to even take a picture of something.” She shrugs. “Usually the moment is gone. I just don’t think about it.”

gallery-1454947800-hbz-cindy-sherman-3

Sherman, 62, is one of the world’s greatest sociologists, so in a way, infiltrating the street-style species is a weirdly natural extension of her work. “You know, I never expected to be doing what I’m doing for as long as I’ve been doing it,” she says. “Every time I start a new project, it’s a new challenge, to try to think of new faces or new characters. Sometimes I feel I’m repeating characters that are poking out of these faces that I shot maybe eight years ago”—a fun exercise for Sherman nerds. “I take on projects like this when I’m starting on a new body of work because it inspires me, gets the juices flowing.”

gallery-1454948246-hbz-cindy-sherman-6

gallery-1454947937-hbz-cindy-sherman-5

see more read more here

see previous Posts

Cindy Sherman

Cindy Sherman – working with MAC comestics

 

Tom Palumbo – Paris

Palumbo has work on the Flickr site, his Paris images are atmospheric and beautiful.

Images from Paris cafés and nightlife in 1962, the same week Yves St. Laurent’s runway show vaulted Dior to new heights.

here is the link to the Flickr photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/tompalumbo/sets/72157604469886784/

Diane Arbus – masters of photography series

Diane Arbus March 14, 1923 – July 26, 1971) was an American photographer and writer noted for black-and-white square photographs of “deviant and marginal people (dwarfs, giants, transvestites, nudists, circus performers) or of people whose normality seems ugly or surreal.” A friend said that Arbus said that she was “afraid… that she would be known simply as ‘the photographer of freaks'”; however, that phrase has been used repeatedly to describe her.

 

 

In 1972, a year after she committed suicide, Arbus became the first American photographer to have photographs displayed at the Venice Biennale. Millions of people viewed traveling exhibitions of her work in 1972-1979. In 2003-2006, Arbus and her work were the subjects of another major traveling exhibition, Diane Arbus Revelations In 2006, the motion picture Fur, starring Nicole Kidman as Arbus, presented a fictional version of her life story.

Although some of Arbus’s photographs have sold for hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction, Arbus’s work has provoked controversy; for example, Norman Mailer was quoted in 1971 as saying “Giving a camera to Diane Arbus is like putting a live grenade in the hands of a child.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arbus was born as Diane Nemerov to David Nemerov and Gertrude Russek Nemerov. The Nemerovs were a Jewish couple who lived in New York City and owned Russek’s, a famous Fifth Avenue department store. Because of the family’s wealth, Diane was insulated from the effects of the Great Depression while growing up in the 1930s. Arbus’s father became a painter after retiring from Russeks; her younger sister would become a sculptor and designer; and her older brother was Howard Nemerov, who would later become United States Poet Laureate, and who is the father of the Americanist art historian Alexander Nemerov.

Diane Nemerov attended the Fieldston School for Ethical Culture, a prep school. In 1941, at the age of 18, she married her childhood sweetheart Allan Arbus. Their first daughter Doon (who would later become a writer) was born in 1945 and their second daughter Amy (who would later become a photographer) was born in 1954.

Diane and Allan Arbus separated in 1958, and they were divorced in 1969

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

“A photograph is a secret about a secret. The more it tells you the less you know. ” – Diane Arbus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Arbuses were both interested in photography. In 1941 they visited the gallery of Alfred Stieglitz, where Diane learned about photographers such as Mathew Brady, Timothy O’Sullivan, Paul Strand, Bill Brandt, and Eugene Atget. In the early 1940s Diane’s father employed them to take photographs for the department store’s advertisements. Allan was a photographer for the U.S. Army Signal Corps in World War II.

In 1946, after the war, the Arbuses began a commercial photography business called “Diane & Allan Arbus,” with Diane as art director and Allan as the photographer. They contributed to Glamour, Seventeen, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and other magazines even though “they both hated the fashion world.” Despite over 200 pages of their fashion editorial in Glamour, and over 80 pages in Vogue, the Arbuses’ fashion photography has been described as of “middling quality.” Edward Steichen’s noted 1955 photographic exhibit, The Family of Man, did include a photograph by the Arbuses of a father and son reading a newspaper.

In 1956, Diane Arbus quit the commercial photography business. Although earlier she had studied photography with Berenice Abbott, her studies with Lisette Model beginning in 1956 led to Arbus’s most well-known methods and style. She began photographing on assignment for magazines such as Esquire, Harper’s Bazaar, and The Sunday Times Magazine in 1959. Approximately 1962, Arbus switched from a 35mm Nikon camera which produced grainy rectangular images to a twin-lens reflex Rolleiflex camera which produced more detailed square images.

In 1963 Arbus was awarded a Guggenheim Fellowship for a project on “American rites, manners, and customs”; the Fellowship was renewed in 1966. In 1964 Arbus began using a twin-lens reflex Mamiya camera with flash in addition to the Rolleiflex. Her methods included establishing a strong personal relationship with her subjects and re-photographing some of them over many years.

During the 1960s, she taught photography at the Parsons School of Design and the Cooper Union in New York City, and the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence, Rhode Island. The first major exhibition of her photographs occurred at the Museum of Modern Art in a 1967 show called “New Documents” which was curated by John Szarkowski and which also featured the work of Garry Winogrand and Lee Friedlander. Some of her artistic work was done on assignment. Although she continued to photograph on assignment (e.g., in 1968 she shot documentary photographs of poor sharecroppers in rural South Carolina for Esquire magazine), in general her magazine assignments decreased as her fame as an artist increased. Szarkowski hired Arbus in 1970 to research an exhibition on photojournalism called “From the Picture Press”; it included many photographs by Weegee whose work Arbus admired.

Using softer light than in her previous photography, she took a series of photographs in her later years of people with intellectual disability showing a range of emotions. At first, Arbus considered these photographs to be “lyric and tender and pretty,” but by June 1971 she told Lisette Model that she hated them.

Among other photographers and artists she befriended during her career, she was close to photographer Richard Avedon; he was approximately the same age, his family had also run a Fifth Avenue department store, and many of his photographs were also characterized as detailed frontal poses. Another good friend was Marvin Israel, an artist, graphic designer, and art director whom Arbus met in 1959.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arbus experienced “depressive episodes” during her life similar to those experienced by her mother, and the episodes may have been worsened by symptoms of hepatitis. Arbus wrote in 1968 “I go up and down a lot,” and her ex-husband noted that she had “violent changes of mood.” On July 26, 1971, while living at Westbeth Artists Community in New York City, Arbus took her own life by ingesting barbiturates and slashing her wrists with a razor. Marvin Israel found her body in the bathtub two days later; she was 48 years old

 

 

More images on the very beautiful site http://diane-arbus-photography.com/

Masters of Photography Diane Arbus Part 1  – Video interview with Diane Arbus (first 4 minutes are of her daughter speaking, after that Diane talks about her work)

Masters of Photography Diane Arbus Part 2  – Video interview with Diane Arbus

Masters of Photography Diane Arbus Part 3  – Video interview with Diane Arbus

Masters of Photography Diane Arbus Part 4  – Video interview with Diane Arbus

Masters of Photography

Tom Palumbo

A student on our Intermediate photography course alerted me to the work of Tom Palumbo. He was busy shooting fashion and celebrities from the 1950’s onwards and his fashion work is exceptional and was featured in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar

Here is a link to his website, have a look at the fashion section http://www.tompalumbo.com/allphotos.html

Emerging Photographer – Max Attenborough

I came across this website by a young photographer Max Attenborough, he works as an assistant and is moving towards setting up his own business as an interiors photographer. His work is simple and beautifully lit, it is rather nice to see the work of someone young who understands the importance of exposure, colour, design and quality of image